#3: A surfer’s diary — Renewing myself, carrying each other forward, and building on more comfort in Cornwall’s winter swells

Waiting for the set to start, not a set of waves, but the music set from diskjockey Olivier Weiter which is playing while I’m writing this. Being a liberated artist, and someone who’s embraced the dark side (‘the night’) in life, I can appreciate his style. In riding bigger waves there’s a dark side too. Quite literally when a wave blocks the light as it curls over the surfer in a barrel, or when a huge set of waves covers the sky, which, looked at from a surfer‘s perspective, lying flat on the board, can be pretty looming I can tell you. This post is about fear, the support one can find in acknowledging it, the letting go of it, and whatever is possible after that.

I am doing something different this winter. Staying in the United Kingdom. Braving colder, and especially wetter weather, suiting up in thick neoprene, boots on, and hoping that Stan the Van will survive it all. Truly, it’s a leap of faith somehow. I got myself a job, as well as setting up a yoga class here locally to support myself. Financially I will need to be faithful as well...

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